You've pictured it for years. Morning coffee, summer cookouts, a railing that doesn't wobble. What's stopping you isn't the vision, it's the number, how long the yard's a jobsite, and whether it's built right so it doesn't rot or pull off the house. All three of those are answered below.
New build or tear-out-and-rebuild, pressure-treated or composite — designed, permitted, footed, framed, and finished by the same crew, so nothing falls between trades.
Ground-up decks sized and laid out for how you actually use the yard.
Old deck torn out and rebuilt right, often on a smarter footprint.
Trex and PVC boards that never need staining and shrug off the weather.
Classic wood decks built to last, at a friendlier price.
Wood, composite, aluminum, or cable — code-height and rock solid.
Safe, even stairs and landings that tie the deck to the yard.
Covered porches, pergolas, and shade to make it a room you use.
Board, rail, and joist replacement, plus sand-and-reseal on tired decks.
Decks are priced by the square foot, but the number swings hard on material, height off the ground, and railings. Most builds land in one of three buckets. Your exact number comes back free and in writing.
Keep the good frame, swap out the worn boards, railings, and finish.
A new deck from the footings up in pressure-treated lumber with standard railing.
Composite or PVC decking, upgraded railings, lighting, and built-ins.
A small deck goes up in a few days; a big composite build with permits runs a couple weeks. We pull the permit and give you the schedule up front so you can plan the cookout.
A real written number, not a phone guess.
Day 1We handle the drawings and pull the permit.
1–2 WeeksSet below frost line so it won't heave.
Days 1–2Ledger flashed to the house, framed square.
Days 2–4Boards down tight with hidden fasteners.
Days 4–6Code-height rails and solid, even stairs.
Days 6–8We walk it and fix anything before we finish.
Final DayThe boards you see are the easy part. What keeps a deck safe and off your house for decades is the stuff underneath. Here's what we never cut corners on.
Poured deep enough that winter can't heave the deck and rack the whole frame.
Bolted and flashed to the house right, so it can't rot the wall or pull loose. The #1 thing bad decks get wrong.
Galvanized and stainless fasteners that won't rust-streak your boards or fail early.
Rail height, joist spacing, and stair rise done to code and inspected, so it holds up and passes at resale.
Nobody enjoys the part where you have to pull answers out of a contractor. So here they are up front, including the ones that are awkward to ask.
Decks are priced by the square foot, but the real number depends on the material, how high off the ground it sits, and the railing you pick.
Anyone quoting off a photo is guessing. We come measure, look at the grade and the house, and send a real written number. Free, and yours to keep either way.
Both are good; it comes down to budget and upkeep:
Wood costs less up front but wants staining every couple years. Composite costs more and then leaves you alone for decades. We'll lay out both for your build.
Almost always, yes — and that's a good thing. We pull the permit and the deck gets inspected, so the footings, framing, and railings are signed off to code.
You don't chase the building department, and it holds up when you sell.
A straightforward deck goes up in a few days once we start. A larger composite build with stairs and permits runs a couple weeks. You get a real schedule with your quote, permit lead time included.
Not if it's built right. Old decks fail at two spots: the ledger where it meets the house, and the footings. We flash the ledger properly and pour footings below the frost line, with galvanized and stainless hardware throughout.
That's the difference between a deck that lasts decades and one that rots the wall behind it.
Yes. If the structure's sound we can reboard, re-rail, and reseal it for a fraction of a rebuild. If it's not, we'll tell you straight and price a proper rebuild instead of putting new boards over bad framing.
New London County and the surrounding towns, listed just below. Not sure if you're in range? Ask us and we'll tell you straight.
We work a thirty mile circle out of Gales Ferry, and that's on purpose. We're not driving two hours to a job we'll never see again. If something needs looking at in a year we're twenty minutes out, and we're going to run into you at the hardware store either way.
Sitting just outside the line? Ask anyway. The answer is usually yes.
Check My TownSend the size and what you're picturing and you'll get a written quote back, usually the same business day. Free, exact, and no obligation.